After a long plane ride, we made our way to our hotel and as Jane had requested, we took a picture of the first bathroom we saw. P1190191 Unfortunately it wasn't in our room which wasn't ready, sow e were sent to a local cafe where Sarah and Suzanne P1190192 and I (Ben preferring to remain incognito) P1190193 dug into the water P1190194 a ham and cheese sandwich, P1190195 a cheese and spinach pie P1190196 and a Greek salad P1190197 that came with its own bread. P1190198

Once we completed our lunch, we were able to get into our room P1190199 and record the view P1190200 as well as the bathroom P1190201 P1190202 P1190203 which came with its own scale (and reduced our weight numbers to less than half). P1190204 P1190205

After a rest, we wandered past this arch P1190206 to find our way to Daphne's restaurant P1190207 where we began with bread P1190208 which amused Suzanne P1190209 Sarah P1190210 and me (Ben still being incognito) P1190211 and then checked out the menu rules and regulations P1190212 P1190213 and noted the decor P1190214 P1190215 before digging into tsatsiki P1190216 Greek salad P1190217 cheese sticks P1190218 onto my ever emerging plate P1190219 P1190220 and leading to fruit P1190221 and a portion of mousaka P1190222 followed by more cheese. P1190223 After we admired the impressive guest list P1190224 P1190225 P1190226 P1190227 we passed the Monument of Lysikrates in sign P1190228 and the Lysikrates Choregic Monument in fact P1190229 and in sign P1190230 before recording the only Greek vocabulary we would need (or maybe the only Greek vocabulary we would know!). P1190231 ../../Sabbat/2008/06.24-07.03.08Greece/06.25.08VisitngTheAcropolis 06.25.08 TravelGreece

Our first full day in Athens began with breakfast from the buffet P1190232 along with orange juice P1190233 as Ben (who had decided to give up the incognito bit) P1190234 P1190235 Suzanne P1190236 Sarah P1190237 and I P1190238 enjoyed the views of the Acropolis at all resolutions knowing that this would be today's destination. P1190239 P1190240 P1190241 P1190242 P1190243 P1190244

We walked through the public gardens P1190245 before stopping at the conference center for a break P1190246 P1190247 and then moving on to this hero P1190248 before stopping at the baths P1190249 that were dug up during the subway construction P1190250 P1190251 and made some in our party feel like they'd like to be in a cool bath P1190252 P1190253 P1190254 rather than continuing the journey past Hadrian's Arch P1190255 P1190256 P1190257 which could be viewed from the side P1190258 before we saw the sign giving our destination P1190259 and began the walk P1190260 P1190261 P1190262 pausing to look back P1190263 while proceeding P1190264 taking the obligatory phone booth picture P1190265 and noting the Church of the Metamorphosis P1190266 while continuing to keep our eye on the rock P1190267 P1190268 P1190269 and sometimes the barely visible (and possibly not captured) moon in the blue sky P1190270 as we passed the theater of Herod Atticus P1190271 as we made our way up P1190272 to the steps P1190273 that led to the splendor P1190274 P1190275 as Ben and Suzanne took a break P1190276 before we entered the temples that were ancient Athens P1190277 P1190278 P1190279 P1190280 P1190281 P1190282 P1190283 P1190284 P1190285 until Sarah and Suzanne broke away from tour groups P1190286 P1190287 and I could focus on taking many pictures of the parthenon at varying levels of detail P1190288 P1190289 P1190290 P1190291 P1190292 P1190293 P1190294 P1190295 P1190296 P1190297 P1190298 P1190299 P1190300 P1190301 P1190302 P1190303 P1190304 P1190305 P1190306 P1190307 P1190308 before we looked out at the hill where we were living P1190309 P1190310 and then Sarah P1190311 Sarah and Sarah P1190312 Sarah, Ben and Suzanne posed P1190313 P1190314 and led us through the other temples P1190315 P1190316 P1190317 P1190318 P1190319 P1190320 pausing occasionally for family photos P1190321 P1190322 P1190323 P1190324 from which point we could watch the reconstruction of the Parthenon P1190325 P1190326 P1190327 P1190328 leading to a block being lowered in place P1190329 even as we wandered past the next temple not yet realizing how much a pillar cost P1190330 P1190331 P1190332 P1190333 P1190334 P1190335 and we were careful to follow the signs (and so didn't touch the marble even if Lord Elgin had) P1190336 P1190337 as we made our way down P1190338 and got our first view of the Agora P1190339 and the remarkable temple of Hephastos P1190340 and then climbed the rocks P1190341 to get a better view of the agora P1190342 though we couldn't read this sign P1190343 while this sign sent us in the right direction P1190344 and so we climbed the very slippery rocks P1190345 to get back to views of the acropolis P1190346 P1190347 P1190348 P1190349 and the agora P1190350 P1190351 before heading down to the Agora P1190352 P1190353 and obeying the instructions P1190354 before entering the Panathenic Way P1190355 and the Ancient Stoa P1190356 where we posed with many of the people who were memorialized there P1190357 P1190358 P1190359 P1190360 P1190361 including this elegant photo of Suzanne and her counterpart (my 2 goddesses) P1190362 and this capital P1190363 while meanwhile we looked out at a fire brewing in the hills around Athens P1190364 P1190365 P1190366 which wasn't going to affect the current view P1190367 but the fire kept raging P1190368 P1190369 P1190370 P1190371 P1190372 P1190373 even as we admired the temple of Hephastos (perhaps he needed the fire for his forge) P1190374 P1190375 P1190376 P1190377 P1190378 P1190379 P1190380 P1190381 P1190382 which was described as follows P1190383 and then we said good bye to Hadrian P1190384 and admired the Brazilian pepper tree P1190385 P1190386 before heading to lunch at savvas in the Plaka where this was the menu P1190387 P1190388 P1190389 P1190390 P1190391 as Ben P1190392 P1190393 Suzanne P1190394 me P1190395 and Sarah P1190396 enjoyed our Greek salad P1190397 tsatsiki P1190398 fried cheese P1190399 and pita P1190400 as the souvlakis came P1190401 P1190402 and then we began the walk back past this Greek Orthodox church P1190403 with its founder P1190404 P1190405 and then back at the hotel, I took some picture of the room P1190406 P1190407 P1190408 and of Ben reading P1190409 until the battery died and the day ended. P1190410 P1190411 ../../Sabbat/2008/06.24-07.03.08Greece/06.26.08ThroughNemeaToNafplion 06.26.08 TravelGreece

This was the start of the Seeger Travel and we began at the base of the Acropolis P1190412 P1190413 P1190414 P1190415 exploring the new Acropolis Museum which is not yet opened P1190416 P1190417 but which is built on top of an excavation (and it is possible to walk atop the excavation and look down, an odd feeling). P1190418 P1190419 P1190420 P1190421 P1190422 P1190423 After an obligatory phone booth picture, we left Athens P1190424 and went to the Gulf of Corinth where we were able to look down on the canal which had been constructed P1190425 P1190426 P1190427 P1190428 P1190429 P1190430 P1190431 P1190432 before we went to the archaeological site at Nemea P1190433 where the main event was the temple in the distance P1190434 P1190435 and we made our way through pieces of columns P1190436 and then explored the temple in deep and exciting detail P1190437 P1190438 P1190439 P1190440 P1190441 P1190442 P1190443 as our guide, Steve Miller, gave us a wonderful tour based on his 30+ years of work on the site P1190444 and we kept looking at columns in various stages of reconstruction (at about $1M per column) P1190445 P1190446 P1190447 P1190448 P1190449 P1190450 P1190451 P1190452 P1190453 P1190454 P1190455 P1190456 P1190457 which amazed the group P1190458 and Suzanne and Sarah P1190459 P1190460 Ben P1190461 and Suzanne P1190462 as Steve Miller told us more P1190463 about the base columns they first found P1190464 P1190465 P1190466 P1190467 before taking us to the shop where we saw how their reconstruction was done. P1190468 P1190469 P1190470 P1190471

Next we went to the ancient stadium P1190472 and entered the area where the athletes oiled their bodies and removed their clothes P1190473 P1190474 P1190475 before going to the field where the races occurred P1190476 P1190477 P1190478 P1190479 P1190480 and lining up for the race P1190481 P1190482 P1190483 P1190484 P1190485 P1190486 P1190487 P1190488 P1190489 P1190490 while respecting the technology build to prevent false starts P1190491 P1190492 P1190493 and after the race began P1190494 P1190495 P1190496 P1190497 I was able to record Ben and Sarah on the course P1190498 P1190499 P1190500 P1190501 before turning attention to the tunnel from which athletes emerged P1190502 P1190503 and the hill back to the bus P1190504 P1190505 P1190506 on which this lovely oleander stood. P1190507

Lunch was at a local restaurant captured in film P1190508.MOV and image P1190509 before we had baked tomato and cheese P1190510 peppers P1190511 tsatsiki P1190512 wine P1190513 Greek salad P1190514 P1190515 and burgers and fries (with a wonderful story about Yaya's fries) for the carnivores P1190516 P1190517 P1190518 P1190519 with zucchini P1190520 and fresh fruit for the others. P1190521

Back on the bus, we made our way to Nafplion where these pastries were waiting in the hotel room P1190522 which had these features P1190523 P1190524 P1190525 highlighted by movable shades in the shower P1190526 through which you could watch your room mate. P1190527 But the view from the room was excellent P1190528 P1190529 P1190530 P1190531 P1190532 P1190533 though I eventually had to wake Ben up P1190534 and eat his pastries P1190535 so that we could wander through the town squares P1190536 P1190537 P1190538 and take pictures of Becca and Shirley P1190539 P1190540 and then a family photo P1190541 before we discovered the gelateria that Dolla had recommended P1190542 and as Suzanne held my gelato P1190543 I recorded this religious scene P1190544 and we then moved on to a photo of most of the group P1190545 P1190546 P1190547 and as I replaced Suzanne in the group P1190548 I was able to get a passerby P1190549 to take a picture of all of us P1190550 P1190551 before we went to the evening's concert P1190552 and then had massive fish for dinner. P1190553 P1190554 P1190555 ../../Sabbat/2008/06.24-07.03.08Greece/06.27.08ASwimARuinAPlay 06.27.08 TravelGreece

It was Suzanne's birthday and to celebrate, the Seeger Board had its meeting in the morning and then Trevor P1190556 Clayton and Margaret P1190557 Danny and Dimitri P1190558 Suzanne, Ben and Sarah P1190559 and Mary gathered P1190560 as I demonstrated how I can take self portraits P1190561 and profile shots of myself P1190562 and recorded a street sign P1190563 as we made our way to the museum of the region P1190564 and then back to the streets P1190565 where Ben, Sarah and Suzanne posed P1190566 P1190567 and then were joined by Clayton P1190568 as we admired narrow streets P1190569 and then saw Margaret emerging from a pharmacy P1190570 as we made our way back through the plaza P1190571 P1190572 P1190573 P1190574 P1190575 and saw this status P1190576 and this watering structure left over from Turkish times P1190577 and the prison afar P1190578 as we recorded the name of the hotel for posterity (where else will you ever have automated curtains in the shower) P1190579 and then the brochure from the worry beads museum P1190580 as we made our way to Tolo where there was a beautiful beach P1190581 P1190582 and a Greek salad P1190583 tsatsiki P1190584 olive paste P1190585 saganacki (fried cheese) P1190586 and vegetables P1190587 which made up this wonderful plate for me P1190588 before the fish dishes came P1190589 P1190590 and then there was the wonderful fruit for dessert P1190591 followed by coffee P1190592 and strong Greek coffee with medium sweetening. P1190593 After a shot of the beach. P1190594 everyone put on their shoes P1190595 and we admired how the water was very clear P1190596 P1190597 as we made our way to the parking lot P1190598 P1190599 and to our bus. P1190600

Our next stop was the ruins at Epidaurus P1190601 where we began in the theater and worked our way up and down P1190602 P1190603 P1190604 P1190605 P1190606 P1190607 P1190608 P1190609 P1190610 P1190611 P1190612 P1190613 P1190614 P1190615 P1190616 P1190617 P1190618 P1190619 P1190620 P1190621 pausing for a group picture P1190622 and pictures of Dimitri descending P1190623 P1190624 P1190625 before reaching the ground P1190626 and waiting for Suzanne to come down P1190627 P1190628 P1190629 so that our group could assemble on the stage and admire the acoustic (which are perfect) P1190630 P1190631 P1190632 P1190633 P1190634 before we gathered for a number of group pictures P1190635 P1190636 P1190637 P1190638 P1190639 P1190640 P1190641 P1190642 and then a few pictures of Becca P1190643 P1190644 before our guide gave us an overview of the archaeological site P1190645 P1190646 and we did our exploration of the stadium P1190647 P1190648 P1190649 with its entry tunnel P1190650 and then on to the temple P1190651 P1190652 P1190653 P1190654 P1190655 where the group heard the story of the civilization that was here P1190656 P1190657 P1190658 before we proceeded to explore P1190659 P1190660 and also see the construction site P1190661 P1190662 P1190663 together with the details P1190664 P1190665 not to mention this picture of the columns P1190666 in the Temple of Asklepios P1190667 P1190668 P1190669 P1190670 P1190671 with this information P1190672 after which we explored P1190673 and came upon the place where the hand of god dispersed the water P1190674 P1190675 but unfortunately we had to leave the complex P1190676 P1190677 and settle for photos of the flowers along the way P1190678 P1190679 P1190680 P1190681 P1190682 P1190683 P1190684 P1190685 and then we stopped for water P1190686 P1190687 P1190688 which was dispensed by the hand of Clayton (almost as it had been done in the temples. P1190689 Back in the bus, we rode through orange groves P1190690 P1190692 P1190693 before reaching the site of the ancient theater (a smaller one) in which we would see Philoctetes. P1190694 After identifying where we would eat, P1190695 P1190696 we explored the town P1190697 P1190698 P1190699 admired the climbing wall P1190700 and mountains beyond P1190701 P1190702 and grape arbor P1190703 before settling in for a dinner P1190704 of bread P1190705 stuffed tomatoes P1190706 stuffed grape leaves P1190707 cheese roll ups P1190708 beer P1190709 greens and beets P1190710 P1190711 together with a meat dish. P1190712 After our watermelon P1190713 Dimitri tried to appropriately celebrate Suzanne's birthday P1190714 P1190715 and then we move on to the theater to see Philoctetes. P1190716 ../../Sabbat/2008/06.24-07.03.08Greece/06.28.08OnToChios 06.28.08 TravelGreece

The next day we could sleep in which was fortunate because we had gotten back quite late from the play. At the airport, we found Ed and he joined Ben and Sarah P1190717 and Suzanne P1190718 and I P1190719 as we waited for our plane to launch P1190720 so that we could enjoy the food P1190721 and the scenery from above P1190722 P1190723 P1190724 P1190725 before we landed at the airport P1190726 and met this classics professor from Reading who knew many Princetonians. P1190727 Unfortunately, even his knowledge of ancient Greek and Ben's excursions into the Iliad were not sufficient to make things fit P1190728 into the trunk of this car P1190729 but we persevered until we got to Pyrgos Village where this map did little to help us find the reception P1190730 but once we found it and found our villa, we were sent off to have lunch so that another villa could be readied for us. Lunch was on the patio (or started there) P1190731 of the restaurant with this menu P1190732 P1190733 P1190734 P1190735 P1190736 with this view P1190737 and Ed and Sarah P1190738 and I P1190739 were ready to eat P1190740 but we began with Mythos, the local beer, P1190741 as Ben had his Fanta OrangeAde P1190742 and the first labels were collected P1190743 as we dug into the bread P1190744 and dips P1190745 as Ben and Suzanne P1190746 became concerned about the bee situation P1190747 P1190748 P1190749 including the one who dove into Ben's drink P1190750 so that we moved inside (where the bees weren't much better) and Ed P1190751 Sarah P1190752 Suzanne P1190753 Ben P1190754 and I P1190755 settled in with our water P1190756 and water label P1190757 and began with the little nibs of bread P1190758 P1190759 before moving on to cheese and tomatoes P1190760 stuffed peppers P1190761 a chicken salad P1190762 and a Greek salad P1190763 P1190764 which made my plate look like this P1190765 as I studied the water glasses P1190766 P1190767 and the breads P1190768 that came with the coffee P1190769 P1190770 P1190771 P1190772 and fruit P1190773 P1190774 which graced my plate like this P1190775 as the bill came and was paid P1190776 but the bees continued to provide challenges for those who wanted the perfect picture P1190777 P1190778 P1190779 P1190780 P1190781 P1190782 P1190783 only to be occasionally distracted by a water glass photo P1190784 and then final bee pictures. P1190785 P1190786 P1190787

Our rooms were now ready, so we could check out the baths P1190788 P1190789 P1190790 and bed P1190791 and bath P1190792 beds P1190793 dining room P1190794 living room P1190795 and staircases of various persuasions P1190796 P1190797 not to mention further bathrooms with controversial curtains in their showers P1190798 another bed P1190799 the downstairs family room P1190800 and kitchen P1190801 before I enjoyed my first piece of mastic candy P1190802 in front of the fireplace. It was a nice villa. Unfortunately, we would move again. P1190803 P1190804 But first, we drove to Limnia where Ed and Sarah P1190805 Suzanne P1190806 and Ben and I P1190807 settled in to enjoy our first ouzo of the trip (fortunately we didn't finish it because the ride home raised challenges of its own) P1190808 and toasted P1190809 before digging into the Greek salad P1190810 tsatsiki P1190811 cheese pies P1190812 saganacki P1190813 fish P1190814 and chicken souvlaki. P1190815 Having done a good job on the fish, P1190816 Ed sent an email P1190817 as our watermelon arrived and we began the challenging drive home (but more on that later). P1190818 ../../Sabbat/2008/06.24-07.03.08Greece/06.29.08TheLocalBeachesOnChios 06.29.08 TravelGreece

This was our first full day on Chios and we slept late, but still Ben looked pretty tired at breakfast, P1190819 though Suzanne was all smiles P1190820 and I was incognito P1190821 as the orange juice P1190822 and coffee arrived P1190823 to be accompanied by eggs and ham (but the eggs were thankfully not green) P1190824 breads P1190825 pastries P1190826 and sweet breads P1190827 to be eaten with jellies P1190828 and fruits P1190829 which got Sarah and Ed up for the task of the day which was to explore the beaches near our hotel so that we could slowly acclimatize to the driving. P1190830

We began with the beach at the Aghia Markela Monastery P1190831 with Ed P1190832 and then Ed, Sarah, Ben and Suzanne trying out the water P1190833 which was very clear P1190834 P1190835 as they entered P1190836 P1190837 and then after a swim, we sat under the trees P1190838 as Ben examined his bites P1190839 and Ed and Sarah P1190840 Suzanne P1190841 and I P1190842 enjoyed the scenery at both ends of the beach and in the middle P1190843 P1190844 P1190845 before I decided to walk down the beach along the water P1190846 P1190847 and found this path P1190848 that led past this sign P1190849 along the way with the waters seeming rougher P1190850 P1190851 P1190852 P1190853 P1190854 until I came across this cross P1190855 P1190856 but still I continued P1190857 P1190858 until I came upon this memorial P1190859 which was labeled P1190860 and looked in to note the contents P1190861 P1190862 before beginning my walk back P1190863 P1190864 P1190865 P1190866 until I got into the shade of our tree P1190867 P1190868 and recorded my foot P1190869 as I watched Ben and Sarah swim P1190870 P1190871 P1190872 P1190873 P1190874 P1190875 P1190876 P1190877 P1190878 P1190879 P1190880 P1190881 P1190882 P1190883 P1190884 P1190885 P1190886 P1190887 P1190888 P1190889 P1190890 P1190891 P1190892 P1190893 P1190894 P1190895 P1190896 P1190897 P1190898 P1190899 P1190900 P1190901 P1190902 P1190903 P1190904 P1190905 P1190906 P1190907 P1190908 P1190909 while meanwhile a game of Kadima was happening next to us P1190910 and the lady whose hair color matched her bathing suit color went for a swim P1190911 and Ben and Sarah P1190912 P1190913 P1190914 P1190915 P1190916 were joined by Suzanne P1190917 P1190918 P1190919 and the others P1190920 P1190921 who passed by leaving Suzanne, Ben and Sarah in my sights P1190922 P1190923 P1190924 P1190925 P1190926 P1190927 P1190928 P1190929 P1190930 P1190931 P1190932 P1190933 P1190934 until Ben decided to exit (and I decided to record this) P1190935 P1190936 P1190937 P1190938 P1190939 P1190940 P1190941 P1190942 P1190943 P1190944 P1190945 P1190946 P1190947 P1190948 P1190949 P1190950 P1190951 P1190952 P1190953 P1190954 P1190955 P1190956 P1190957 P1190958 P1190959 P1190960 P1190961 P1190962 and then Suzanne and Sarah started to move P1190963 P1190964 P1190965 P1190966 but I focussed my attention on Suzanne's journey P1190967 P1190968 P1190969 P1190970 P1190971 P1190972 P1190973 P1190974 P1190975 P1190976 P1190977 P1190978 P1190979 P1190980 P1190981 P1190982 P1190983 P1190984 P1190985 P1190986 P1190987 P1190988 P1190989 P1190990 P1190991 P1190992 P1190993 P1190994 P1190995 P1190996 until she reached Ben P1190997 P1190998 P1190999 P1200001 with Sarah in the background P1200002 and Ed settled in P1200003 as we recorded the stones Suzanne had found P1200004 Ben's injury P1200005 P1200006 and my dying battery P1200007 and so decided it was time to walk by the monastery with the interesting sign P1200008 P1200009 and take the obligatory phone booth picture P1200010 before going to the restaurant and ordering Pepsi Light P1200011 getting some bread P1200012 and water P1200013 and a Greek salad P1200014 and another with bacon and cheese P1200015 to go with the tsatsiki P1200016 garlic dish P1200017 and pies and fried cheeses of various sorts (some of which surprised us for their contents) P1200018 P1200019 P1200020 and then Ben's burger with egg on top arrived complete with fries P1200021 P1200022 which amused Suzanne P1200023 Ed P1200024 Sarah P1200025 Ben P1200026 and me P1200027 even as we recorded the fruits and bee attractors in the nearby tree P1200028 having neglected to get our complimentary watermelon P1200029 for which we had to return though we used the occasion to get a picture with our waiter P1200030 and to have him take these pictures of us at the table P1200031 P1200032 and these pictures with the sea in the background P1200033 P1200034 which set the stage for us to walk back past this sign P1200035 and take another obligatory phone booth picture P1200036 before traveling to the next beach, getting out of the car P1200037 looking around a bit P1200038 P1200039 and then following the boards P1200040 to the water P1200041 P1200042 before exploring the length of the beach P1200043 P1200044 as Suzanne made her way forward P1200045 and the scenery was beautiful P1200046 P1200047 until Suzanne found her rock P1200048 P1200049 as Sarah photographed P1200050 and Ed joined Suzanne's search P1200051 though I seemed to be the one to find this sea glass P1200052 as we explore a bit more P1200053 including the garbage P1200054 and changing place P1200055 and shade tree P1200056 before we headed on to the beach at Limnos P1200057 P1200058 where we did a quick explore P1200059 P1200060 P1200061 P1200062 recorded the menu P1200063 and then headed back to the hotel where we found the swimming pool P1200064 and Ben P1200065 Ed P1200066 Sarah P1200067 and Suzanne enjoyed the rest. P1200068

Next, we headed out to dinner in Sidhirounda where we had our first retsina of the trip P1200069 with a Greek salad P1200070 and the local breads P1200071 along with pies P1200072 stuffed tomatoes P1200073 water P1200074 salty's (aka sardines) P1200075 and a bean dish. P1200076 After recording Ben P1200077 Sarah P1200078 Ed P1200079 Suzanne P1200080 and me, P1200081 we recorded the name of the restaurant, P1200082 took a picture of the owner (who was nice enough to give us pins to repel the evil eye) P1200083 and bought ouzo for the road. P1200084 ../../Sabbat/2008/06.24-07.03.08Greece/06.30.08TheBeachesOfNorthernChios 06.30.08 TravelGreece

This was the day for us to explore the Northern part of the island, but we began by recording our villa's front door P1200085 and the view to the balcony P1200086 and as Suzanne emerged to our front yard (of stone) P1200087 I recorded our entryway P1200088 and the view of our place P1200089 the road to town P1200090 our neighbor's house P1200091 the stone patterns on the ground P1200092 and the nameplate for our villa (Erato the muse) P1200093 before taking a look at the fortress atop our hill P1200094 and having Ben P1200095 Suzanne P1200096 Ed P1200097 Sarah P1200098 and me make our way to a breakfast P1200099 of eggs P1200100 breads P1200101 honey P1200102 fruit P1200103 and orange juice. P1200104 After recording the ceiling P1200105 and seating in our family room, P1200106 we left the villa P1200107 headed for the car P1200108 and after capturing the views from the car of the whole of Pyrgos Villages P1200109 P1200110 including the path to the pool and restaurant P1200111 we drove on first to Fyta (where we didn't play basketball) P1200112 though we did navigate this narrow street P1200113 and then to Kampia P1200114 and observing the road construction signs P1200115 we made our way through Viki P1200116 to the beach at Ghiosonas (where Jason and his argonauts , who came from the town of Argos near where we had been on the mainland, hung out). Ben P1200117 tested the waters P1200118 and we observed the waters P1200119 P1200120 before exploring down the beach P1200121 P1200122 P1200123 P1200124 and capturing broad views of the setting P1200125 P1200126 P1200127 P1200128 P1200129 P1200130 P1200131 P1200132 P1200133 P1200134 P1200135 P1200136 including this movie that shows the waves in motion. P1200137.MOV before we decided to leave P1200138 and head to Nagos Beach where we found parking and drinks P1200139 P1200140 and a nice looking beach P1200141 P1200142 where Ben and Sarah settled for some drink P1200143 as we photographed the waters P1200144 P1200145 P1200146 P1200147 P1200148 and made our way to the sands (actually stones) where we recorded Ban's bug bites P1200149 P1200150 and the beach scene P1200151 P1200152 P1200153 including the swimmers (who would soon include us) P1200154 P1200155 before taking the plunge over the stones P1200156 and then returning to sunscreening P1200157 P1200158 and beautiful stone pictures P1200159 P1200160 and a lunch with Mythos beer P1200161 Coke light P1200162 Greek salad P1200163 bread (why do they always put the silverware in the bread basket??) P1200164 cheese balls P1200165 cheese pies P1200166 and tsatsiki P1200167 which allowed me to make this wonderful face on my plate. P1200168 After lunch, there was more swimming. Our location was ideal, we could sit in the taverna at the edge of the beach and enjoy the scenery, good food and shade (not to mention free parking) or we could sit on the stones and worship the sun or we could swim. And, the proprietor had lived in Pittsburgh for along time, so we could discuss Steelers history. P1200169 P1200170 P1200171 P1200172 P1200173 P1200174 P1200175 P1200176 P1200177 P1200178 P1200179 P1200180 P1200181 P1200182 P1200183 P1200184 P1200185 P1200186 P1200187 P1200188 P1200189 P1200190 P1200191 P1200192 P1200193 P1200194 P1200195 P1200196 and we also had bathroom facilities (which we later used for changing clothes) as long as we followed the rules P1200197 and then there was more swimming in the beautiful water P1200198 P1200199 P1200200 P1200201 P1200202 P1200203 P1200204 P1200205 P1200206 P1200207 P1200208 P1200209 P1200210 P1200211 P1200212 P1200213 P1200214 P1200215 P1200216 P1200217 P1200218 P1200219 P1200220 P1200221 P1200222 P1200223 P1200224 P1200225 P1200226 P1200227 P1200228 P1200229 P1200230 P1200231 P1200232 P1200233 P1200234 before Ben swam in P1200235 and emerged P1200236 P1200237 P1200238 P1200239 to a seat on the beach P1200240 ad Ed read next to him until we decided it was time to make our way. P1200241

Our next stop was in the town of Kardamila where we noted the memorial P1200242 and the old home P1200243 off the town square P1200244 as Suzanne used the public water P1200245 before this construction worker P1200246 who felt I needed to take a picture of his friend advertising Amstel Light P1200247 before we recorded the hiking trails nearby P1200248 and the narrow streets of the town P1200249 before buying some Magnums (ice cream treats) in the local cafe. P1200250 Our next stop was in Lagada where there were many tavernas and ships along the waterfront P1200251 P1200252 and views back up the hills of the defense fortresses P1200253 P1200254 as we sat on the beach in various configurations and watched the town P1200255 P1200256 P1200257 P1200258 P1200259 P1200260 P1200261

From Lagada, we went to Pitios which claims to be the birthplace of Homer and also is home to quite a fortress. After recording many views of the town church P1200262 P1200263 P1200264 P1200265 we headed to the fortress P1200266 P1200267 P1200268 P1200269 P1200270 and recorded the valley below (the one drove that gave me vertigo while on the island) P1200271 P1200272 P1200273 and Ed began a climb to the top of the fortress P1200274 while we kept the valley in check P1200275 P1200276 until he reached the top and confirmed that there was no entry P1200277 so we made our way to the town P1200278 P1200279 P1200280 and away from the tower P1200281 which was expensive to maintain P1200282 and from afar quite impressive. P1200283 P1200284 We recorded the signage P1200285 including an upside down caution sign (never a good sign) P1200286 and the local donkey P1200287 as we made our way to the taverna Makellos which had been recommended to us. P1200288 After bread P1200289 water P1200290 Greek salad P1200291 grape leaves P1200292 stuffed flowers P1200293 cheese pies P1200294 pasta P1200295 and saganacki, P1200296 Suzanne and Ed P1200297 and Sarah were satisfied P1200298 but Ben and I P1200299 thought it was necessary to buy another dish. P1200300 ON our way out of town, we admired the memorial and then headed home to Volissos P1200301 where we made our way to our local fortress P1200302 P1200303 and captured views of the valley below P1200304 as the camera battery died P1200305 but could be replaced in time to capture some sunset P1200306 and many views P1200307 P1200308 P1200309 P1200310 P1200311 in an effort to locate the small street where we had to turn around on the first night (and to see if there was an easy way through Volissos). P1200312 P1200313 After a self portrait P1200314 and these photos of Sarah and Ed P1200315 P1200316 P1200317 we headed back to our villa where I recorded my ever growing collection of labels. P1200318 ../../Sabbat/2008/06.24-07.03.08Greece/07.01.08TheBeachesOfSouthernChios 07.01.08 TravelGreece

On the way to breakfast, we recorded the village where we were living P1200319 and then Ben P1200320 P1200321 Suzanne P1200322 Ed P1200323 Sarah P1200324 and I P1200325 admired the glass P1200326 and settled in for a breakfast of orange juice P1200327 fruit and yogurt P1200328 with many toppings P1200329 for the sweet breads that came. P1200330 Suzanne P1200331 and Ben P1200332 seemed as wilted as the flowers P1200333 but Sarah and Ed studied the map P1200334 which roused Suzanne from her book P1200335 and once we got gasoline, we were on our way P1200336 to the beach at Elinda which we explored and admired P1200337 P1200338 P1200339 P1200340 P1200341 P1200342 and then we saw the beach at Kastelo P1200343 and parked the car along this dirt road (neglecting to think about turning around before going to the beach to make the return easier) P1200344 and went down to the beach P1200345 where Ben considered swimming P1200346 Sarah found this ring that we are sure belonged to Homer P1200347 and Ed swam away P1200348 as we looked at the watch tower atop the hill P1200349 and the beaches in the distance P1200350 while settling in both on the beach P1200351 P1200352 and on the rocks along the side of the beach. Gentle reader: though there are few images of us in the water, we enjoyed the beach and its waters; maybe that kept us in the water and off the camera? P1200353 P1200354 P1200355 P1200356 P1200357 Next we moved on to Lithi, where (relatively) many cars were parked P1200358 and the streets were lined with tavernas of which we chose this one P1200359 and read the menu in images as well as in words P1200360 P1200361 as Ben P1200362 P1200363 Sarah P1200364 Ed P1200365 me P1200366 and Suzanne P1200367 began with water P1200368 bread P1200369 Greek salad (with the very interesting pickled beans) P1200370 and tsastsiki P1200371 and curiously, the cheese for the salad came on the side P1200372 to make my plate look like this before P1200373 cheese balls P1200374 and potato balls arrived P1200375 along with our vessel of the house wine P1200376 and Ben's lemonade P1200377 to go with the grilled vegetables P1200378 and the fish (type 1) P1200379 which came with its own sauce P1200380 and encouraged me to make this food face P1200381 before the fish was consumed P1200382 and the watermelon came P1200383 and was also consumed P1200384 but this didn't prevent the bees from coming and raising the challenge of getting the best bee picture. P1200385 P1200386 P1200387 P1200388 P1200389 P1200390 P1200391 P1200392 While we were focusing on bee pictures, the driver of this bus dented in his luggage compartment P1200393 and so though we liked the front of his bus, he was going to have some explaining to do when he got back. P1200394 Some of us went into the waters P1200395 P1200396 while others enjoyed the chairs on the beach P1200397 P1200398 P1200399 P1200400 P1200401 before we made our way to the local dessert shop and had ice creams P1200402 P1200403 P1200404 Coke Lights P1200405 and waters P1200406 and even got a spoon P1200407 with which to seat the ice cream. This left us fueled for the ride back home P1200408 even when we met the goats along the road. P1200409 P1200410

After a rest, we decided to walk down our hill to Volissos, our local town, for dinner. We discovered the street that we had tried to drive up the first night and wondered how we could have been so foolish. P1200411 In the town square, we saw the local hero P1200412 the local hiking path P1200413 and the local museum P1200414 before going to this restaurant P1200415 and recording first the menu P1200416 P1200417 P1200418 P1200419 P1200420 P1200421 and then the welcoming bread P1200422 and water P1200423 and then the people -- Suzanne P1200424 Sarah and Ed, P1200425 Ben's hair P1200426 and Ben's profile P1200427 and finally me P1200428 when the retsina in a bottle arrived P1200429 along with the salad P1200430 making my plate look like this P1200431 as we had fried cheese P1200432 more salad P1200433 cheese pies P1200434 pasta P1200435 and a meat dish P1200436 before having more salad P1200437 and more cheese pies. P1200438 We closed with ice cream -- chocolate P1200439 and rose P1200440 and a cup of coffee, P1200441 not to mention a picture with the manager P1200442 who gave us his card and asked that we send him these pictures. P1200443 P1200444 After a few failed attempts to record the darkness P1200445 P1200446 I took a final picture of the narrow street in about the conditions I had tried to drive up it. What was I thinking?? P1200447 ../../Sabbat/2008/06.24-07.03.08Greece/07.02.08TheVillagesThatMakeTheMastic 07.02.08 TravelGreece

This was to be a day of a lot of driving to the villages in the south where they grow the Mastic and solve all problem. So, we began with a quicker (and earlier) breakfast with less documentation P1200448 P1200449 P1200450 P1200451 P1200452 P1200453 P1200454 and then took a picture of our villa from the back on the patio that we seldom used (because there were so many nice places to sit) P1200455 and then began our journey not stopping until we reached the town of Vesa where we took a few pictures from the car P1200456 P1200457 P1200458 P1200459 and noted the beautiful purple flowers P1200460 P1200461 before heading off to Mesta P1200462 where we stopped in a taverna to get some liquids and leave some liquids as Suzanne P1200463 and Sarah demonstrate P1200464 while the saints looked down on us. P1200465 The town of Mesta is a maze of twisty little lanes between house all of which are oriented in interior fashion to keep the pirates out, so once we finished the entry P1200466 P1200467 we were in very narrow passageways P1200468 P1200469 P1200470 P1200471 P1200472 P1200473 P1200474 P1200475 some of which were blocked by buildings P1200476 before we came to a marked street P1200477 and exited and then found an entrance to help find our way back to the car P1200478 with Suzanne posing at the entrance to the complex (which is said to be the place where Christopher Columbus came from) P1200479 P1200480 and a warning sign telling us to beware of the dog P1200481 and we then passed the church P1200482 P1200483 and a few more narrow passage ways (though less narrow because they would admit cars) P1200484 P1200485 before we headed on to the town of Pyrgi. P1200486

The town of Pyrgi is a unique place. Someone started the pattern of painting black and white on the houses (and other structures) and so the whole town has a Disneyland-esque feel to it. This consumed us (and certainly the camera) as we took many pictures to record this and in so doing got a good sense of the town P1200487 P1200488 P1200489 P1200490 P1200491 P1200492 P1200493 before turning to artistic photos of a church through an archway P1200494 P1200495 and the clock tower on the church P1200496 P1200497 in the town square P1200498 and some more black and white decorations P1200499 P1200500 as we ascending the steps of the clock P1200501 P1200502 only to see that there were more levels to climb P1200503 P1200504 some of which Ben climbed P1200505 P1200506 P1200507 as Ed and Sarah posed P1200508 P1200509 and we recorded yet another black and white street P1200510 and this unusual grafifti P1200511 and the grafitti looked better with the black and white background. P1200512 We made our way down the narrow street P1200513 past an ad for the drink that was going to change us P1200514 and came back to the square to a restaurant P1200515 where Ed and Sarah P1200516 Suzanne P1200517 Ben P1200518 and I settled P1200519 and extolled the virtues of the Mast drink (not your father's Mountain Dew) P1200520 P1200521 P1200522 P1200523 before bread P1200524 salad P1200525 and tsatsiki came P1200526 allowing me to make this face (my best yet, I believe) P1200527 while waiting for the pizza to arrive. P1200528 P1200529 Sarah was using the Blackberry P1200530 as we left the table P1200531 and Suzanne led us onward P1200532 for a few more shots of the black and white town even on pictures of the prophets P1200533 P1200534 and some last views of the narrow streets of the town P1200535 P1200536 before we headed off to the mastic groves P1200537 P1200538 where the white paint was often a give away for which trees were to be sapped P1200539 P1200540 P1200541 P1200542 P1200543 P1200544 P1200545 and we even cut some of our own to have in the car P1200546 P1200547 P1200548 P1200549 before we headed to the beach at Vroulidia which is accurately described as one of the most beautiful small beaches on any Greek island. It was a walk down to the beach and so I left the camera above after taking these shots to give the setting and came down and enjoyed the setting and the refreshing swim. P1200550 P1200551 P1200552 P1200553 P1200554 P1200555 P1200556 P1200557 P1200558 P1200559 P1200560 Next we went to Mavra Viola, the black beach where we were met with warning signs P1200561 P1200562 and explored the beach P1200563 P1200564 P1200565 P1200566 P1200567 P1200568 and made this movie that gave a sense of the sounds of the waves breaking over the stones (almost symphonic, but not particularly swimmable) P1200569.MOV and so we P1200570 left the people on the beach P1200571 and headed on to Komi which is a fairly populated beach P1200572 P1200573 P1200574 P1200575 P1200576 though there was plenty of room to swim P1200577 P1200578 P1200579 and a waiter brought me a Mythos beer (almost like the mirage lady) P1200580 before Suzanne beckoned me away P1200581 so that we might stop in the pottery town of Armolia which was unfortunately closed P1200582 though it did have beautiful arches P1200583 as we made our way to Limnos and before dinner took the obligatory phone booth pictures P1200584 P1200585 before Ed and Sarah P1200586 Suzanne and Ben P1200587 and I P1200588 settled down with the menu P1200589 P1200590 P1200591 P1200592 and I had a bit of ouzo P1200593 to go with the bread P1200594 cheese balls P1200595 cheese and meat pies P1200596 Greek salad P1200597 tsatsiki P1200598 and other dishes P1200599 P1200600 P1200601 leading up to meat dishes that we ordered. P1200602 After I broke the chair (too much saganacki, perhaps) P1200603 Ben and Suzanne posed for many pictures P1200604 P1200605 P1200606 P1200607 P1200608 P1200609 P1200610 P1200611 P1200612 P1200613 and my camera seemed to rotate around the table so that these pictures of me P1200614 Ed and Sarah P1200615 P1200616 me, again P1200617 Ben in camera mode P1200618 P1200619 me, a third time P1200620 and Ben could be taken P1200621 P1200622 before we looked down at the beach P1200623 P1200624 P1200625 recorded Sarah's found ring, P1200626 Ben P1200627 me P1200628 Ed P1200629 Sarah P1200630 Ed and Sarah P1200631 P1200632 and, at last, ate our watermelon P1200634 before recording the upside down heart in the tree that grew within the taverna. P1200635 The owners were nice enough to let us take a picture of them in their kitchen P1200636 and then we recorded Jeff's prior presence at the restaurant. Why didn't he tell us? P1200637 ../../Sabbat/2008/06.24-07.03.08Greece/07.03.08ARelaxingFinalDay 07.03.08 TravelGreece

It was our last day and we had decided to be leisurely about things. Clearly the locals felt the same because they offered us ice cream in place of yogurt because they were out of yogurt P1200638 P1200639 and so we had ice cream on our fruit P1200640 except for those who had scrambled eggs with local cheese, tomatoes and meat. P1200641 While there, we met Sandra's parents who retired to the island 14 years ago after lives in the United States and took the usual photos P1200642 P1200643 P1200644 P1200645

After a period of malaise, we headed back to Aghia Markela where we had liked both the restaurant and the beach (and it wasn't far) and had some cheese balls P1200646 Greek salad P1200647 saganacki P1200648 tsitsiki P1200649 and water P1200650 which kept Sarah P1200651 Ed P1200652 Ben P1200653 Suzanne P1200654 and me happy P1200655 even as we started our bread P1200656 and curious (and apparently tasty) lamb chops where we thought we had ordered something else. P1200657

After lunch, we swam at the beach that we liked P1200658 P1200659 P1200660 P1200661 P1200662 P1200663 P1200664 P1200665 P1200666 P1200667 P1200668 P1200669 P1200670 P1200671 P1200672 P1200673 P1200674 P1200675 P1200676 P1200677 and I recorded Ben as he emerged P1200678 P1200679 P1200680 P1200681 P1200682 P1200683 P1200684 P1200685 P1200686 P1200687 and then there was more swimming P1200688 P1200689 P1200690 P1200691 P1200692 P1200693 P1200694 P1200695 P1200696 P1200697 P1200698 P1200699 P1200700 P1200701 P1200702 P1200703 P1200704 before Ed and Sarah emerged P1200705 P1200706 P1200707 P1200708 P1200709 P1200710 P1200711 P1200712 P1200713 P1200714 P1200715 P1200716 P1200717 P1200718 P1200719 P1200720 P1200721 P1200722 P1200723 P1200724 P1200725 P1200726 P1200727 P1200728 P1200729 and Sarah made her way back P1200730 P1200731 P1200732 P1200733 P1200734 P1200735 P1200736 P1200737 P1200738 P1200739 P1200740 P1200741 P1200742 P1200743 P1200744 P1200745 P1200746 P1200747 P1200748 P1200749 P1200750 P1200751 P1200752 P1200753 P1200754 P1200755 P1200756 P1200757 P1200758 P1200759 P1200760 under a nice blue sky P1200761 P1200762 until she got to her towel P1200763 P1200764 P1200765 P1200766 P1200767 P1200768 P1200769 P1200770 P1200771 while meanwhile Suzanne continued one last swim. Gentle viewer, you might think of this as the end of a jazz concert where everyone gets their solo and their applause from the viewing audience P1200772 P1200773 P1200774

Back at the hotel, we posed the family with Garyfalia ad the Bulgarian waitress P1200775 P1200776 P1200777 and then Suzanne P1200778 Ben P1200779 P1200780 Ed P1200781 Sarah P1200782 and I P1200783 got ready for a feast starting with water P1200784 bread P1200785 with various toppings P1200786 P1200787 P1200788 wine P1200789 from this bottle P1200790 a Greek salad P1200791 vegetables from the grill P1200792 more Greek salads (maybe we asked for too many?) P1200793 P1200794 which made my plate look like this P1200795 and then many chicken filets P1200796 followed by an after dinner drink P1200797 that we all toasted together P1200798 before the watermelon and other fruits arrived. P1200799 Suzanne seemed happy with the meal and the vacation P1200800 as did Ed P1200801 and Ben (who might also have been happy to not have to pose for any more photos) P1200802 P1200803 P1200804 P1200805 and we took our boxed breakfast of eggs and toast P1200806 from the waiters P1200807 and with Ben leading the way P1200808 through the darkness of a failed photographic experiment P1200809 P1200810 P1200811 P1200812 P1200813 P1200814 went back to our kitchen to process the breakfast P1200815 P1200816 which made sense once opened, P1200817 to change the battery for the camera P1200818 and to record one last item in our villa. Good bye Chios and Pyrgos Villages, thanks for everything!! P1200819